Friday, July 26, 2013

One of My Go To Vintage Looks PART 2

Here is my go to vintage a makeup look. This look is pretty much authentically 1940s . It is important to understand a few things about 1940s  makeup before you try to create a 1940s makeup look for yourself. During World War 2 there were a tons of rationing restrictions of tons of items.  Eyeliner in those days was liquid and for the most part  black, they did not have the color variety we have today. Eye shadows in the 1940s were mostly neutral tones of brown and some greys. Blush was rosy pink and some corals at the time, mostly pink though. Once rationing made it hard to get a hold of blush women also simply used their lipstick to add some color to their cheeks. And mascara like eye liner was available mostly in black. It was also commonly only applied to the top lashes and the bottom lashes were left bare. Something else worth noting it that it didn't help that many luxury items like makeup had a luxury price tag to go with them during the war, due to rationing.

A few years back I stumbled upon this website it gives great insight to make up in the 1940s. Also below is a chart showing authentic vintage colors that Revlon still makes and what year the items were originally made. I keep this pictures in my phone just in case. Also I tend to like Certainly Red, and Love That Red, they are both early 1950s colors. But I they work just fine or a 1940s look and I think you need to pick a color that suits you even if it wasn't made in the time you are trying to emulate. A quick note I have tried to find Raven Red with no luck, so I have no idea what that color is like.

Tools Needed

I did not include a photo of the makeup wedges I use
 
 You will need a good lip balm. My absolute favorite is Smith's Rosebud Salve, from the Rosebud Perfume Company the company was started in the late 1800s and their products are wonderful. 
 
 you will need an eye shadow that is neutral to your skin tone. I like this set because it has the color I will need for my crease too.
 
 You will need a good black eyeliner, I like this one from Almay
 You will need a foundation color. I like Loreal True match.
You will need a concealer I use Loreal True match for this also.
 
 
 This item is optional, it is eyebrow powder. I have very sparse hair in my brows so they need some assistance. This is from Anastasia Beverly Hills in Strawburn.
 You will need a rosy blush color. I like Loreal True match.
 You will need a powder color. I like Loreal True match, because my powder and foundation are the exact same color.
 This is also optional but a white highlighting eye shadow (obviously not an authentically vintage item)
You will need a black mascara, this is the one I am liking these days.
 You will need a powder brush.
 You will need at least one angle brush, I need 2 because I use one for my eyebrows.
 
You will need a blush brush.

Tutorial

Step 1: Start with a clean face that has been well moisturized. Once the moisturizer is dry your face is ready for makeup. This is the best time to apply your lip balm as it needs time to moisturize your lips to get them ready for your red lipstick.
 
Step 2: Apply the eye shadow that is the same color as your skin from you lash line all the way up the your eyebrows. as you can see below, you can't really see the eye shadow but it did make the skin on my eyelids one even tone.
 Step 3: Apply the darkest shade to your crease or socket of your eye, using an angle brush. This line should be quite noticeable at this point.
 Step 4: Using the shade you used from your lash line to your brow bone blend the colors together.
Step 5: Now you need to line your top lashes. For a 1940s look your line should be a thin as possible, if you look at the picture below you can barely see my line with my eyes closed. You can see the line better when my eyes are open.
 
 Step 6: Using a wedge sponge applicator apply your foundation to your face, making sure to blend at your hairline.
 Step 7 & 8: Apply foundation to trouble areas, and blend with the flat bottom side of your makeup wedge.
 
 Step 9: Define your eyebrows. Vintage looks 1940s and otherwise have well defined eyebrows since mine just don't have that much hair in them, they need some help. I used the angle brush that is made by the company that makes my brow powder.
 Step 10: When you apply your blush, start at the apples of our cheeks and move out toward your hair line, along your jawline. I can see my jaw line without having to make any faces but sometimes I helps to make a slight fish face at yourself, where your cheeks suck in is your jaw line. At this point it should look like you have far more blush on than you need
 Step 11: Now it is time for powered. You will probably have to load your brush a few times with you do this.  Load you powder brush and using circular motions you are going  buff the powered onto your face. This will create the vintage matte skin look. Make sure you load your brush before each cheek, this is what brings down the color of the cheek makeup. Also know that the color is more noticeable on me because I am so pale.
 Step 12 & 13:  Apply your mascara, if you want to try not applying mascara to you bottom lashes, go for it. I personally do not like how my eyes look with bare bottom lashes. Also at this point if you have elected to use the white shadow apply it gently into the inside corners of your eyes and lightly along your brow bone. This should simply be a highlighting color, it shouldn't be obviously visible.
 Step 14 & 15: At this point if you have any lip balm still on your lips you should wipe it away. Then if  you choose apply lip liner, I don't always do this step but when I do I apply clear lip liner not only to the line of my lip but I also fill it in with the clear liner. This helps to hold the red color and keep it from running if you have that issue. It is also helpful to line them in the heat.  I believe in this picture I used Love That Red or Certainly Red. I am not  100% certain as I had both colors out that day
 
For the hair portion of this tutorial please see One of My Go To Vintage Looks  PART 1

One of My Go To Vintage Looks PART 1

I  am of the belief that every woman should have a couple of go to hair and makeup looks, that she is very skilled at and can create with little to no thought. The following hair and makeup is one such go to look for me. This particular hair style I do at least once or twice a week and the makeup is my standard vintage style makeup, which happens most days, both with and without red lips. Below are the tools I used to create this look, the only items I did not photograph were my heat cream, bobby pins, and my curling iron it is I think an inch curling iron but I honestly do not know as I have had it for so long. If you are going to create this look make sure you have bobby pins that correspond with your hair color.

Tools Needed

You will need a rat tail comb. This one came in a variety pack of about 10 combs for around $5, I found this a drugstore several years ago.
 You will also need small alligator clips, many people also call these pin curl clips. I found mine at Sally's for under $10 in a box of I think 100 (it has also been several years now since I bought these).
 This item is optional I use Pureology, Shine Max, it is a plant based shine serum that works great in my hair, to keep the frizz down.
 You will need 2 hair combs (please excuse the hair stuck to mine). These can be found in most drug stores and beauty supply stores, I bought mine in a variety pack with several colors but I like these brownish ones the best.
You will also need a hairspray you like. I recommend Aqua Net as honestly I think it works best and it still allows my hair to move.

Photo Tutorial

Step 1: First you will need to brush and part you hair, then prep it for heat. I like a deep side part on my left I make the part just over the arch of my eye brow.
Step 2: Using the skinny end of your rat tail comb part you hair from ear to ear as shown. You will now have three sections of hair one large one from your ears back and two small ones from your ears forward. For now clip the two front sections our of your way.


 Step 3: The bottommost layer of my hair ( about the last inch or inch and half of thickness closest to my neck) does not always respond to the curling iron the way I would like. So here you can see that after I took the curling iron out of each these sections of hair I made each section into a standing pin curl secured by an alligator clip.
 Step 4: After I curled and pinned the bottommost layer of the back section of hair I simply curled the remainder of the large section of hair from my ears back. After each curl was formed I simply let it fall and maintain its barrel shape until my entire head was completely cool. If your hair does not hold curl well or if you want a less wavy and more curly look secure each curl in the same way I secured my bottom layer of hair. You will then have an entire head of standing pin curls. If you select to go the curl and clip path you will have the best results if you curl you hair downward. 
Step 5: At this point it is time to curl the front sections of hair. I start with the section of hair with the least amount of hair. Again I created standing pin curls secured using alligator clips.  Both sections will be made into standing pin curls. I curl my hair away from my part and toward my ears as you will be able to see below.  After this step I stopped, did my make up and then finished my hair. This allowed my hair time to cool and the to curls set.
 



 Step 6: Release the hair you have secured with alligator clips.
 Step7: Next you will need to coat the palms of your hands in shine serum. Then you will finger comb out your curls. At this stage if you like your curls to be a bit more defined only use your fingers. I like to run my comb or my brush very lightly through my hair to make things sit together more. After brushing the curls you will need to run a bit more shine serum over your hair to bring the frizz down. I like to define the curls at the ends of my hair by twisting them quickly around my fingers.
 Step 8: At this point you will secure each side you sectioned off in front of your ears with one of your combs. Leave some of your bangs out (if you don't have bangs just leave the section that would be your bangs out). For this step you do not have to use combs. I do sometimes use bobby pins for this, but be aware that if you do use bobby pins they have a tendency to slip so you will need to cross them over each other to secure them. Generally when I use bobby pins I cover them with small bow clips. Please note that this is a 1940s inspired look, woman in the 1940s used combs to create a lot of their looks, so if you are going for a more authentic look combs are the way to go.


Step 8: Now you are just left with your bangs. As you can see I don't have real bangs simply the section of hair that would be bangs if they were cut shorter. There are a few ways to deal with this piece of hair. One you can simply tuck it behind you ear. Two comb it back along with the rest of the hair on that side of your face (I don't tend to like this option on me). Finally three tuck your hair behind your ear and secure it with a bobby pin. This last option if what I tend to do the most.
 
 The final look will be revealed in One of My Go To Vintage Looks  PART 2